AT THE TABLE WITH ED GRACE

Olive oil pouring in a steady stream. The pine-like fragrance of rosemary. Tantalising, salt-cured guanciale sizzling in a pan. Tema Artichokes and sliced lemons bobbing in water-filled trays. Garlic bulbs snapping as their papery white peels fall away. 

“Pass six eggs, please.”

Fresh produce travelling in the dumbwaiter, up and down. Gypsy Kings’ Hotel California succeeded by The Beatles’ I Saw Her Standing There humming through the speakers, just loud enough to sing along to.

Beyond the cheerful buzz of the kitchen, the dining room is a picture of easy, trattoria charm with dark wooden flooring, old-school silver ceiling fans and low-hanging lights. There are elegant half curtains, thick white tablecloths and rustic wooden chairs set carefully in place.

These are the sights and sounds of one of London’s best Italian restaurants. Trullo’s kitchen is a hive of energy, where half a dozen chefs prep and cook in harmony.

Just a stone’s throw from Highbury Corner, Trullo has been serving simple, seasonally driven Italian cuisine for more than 15 years, earning a reputation for its hand-made pasta and charcoal-grilled meats and fish. While its commitment to quality and effortless aesthetic remain unchanged, the menu evolves constantly, renewed each day.

At the helm is head chef Ed Grace, who sautées deeply delicious Tema Artichokes with salt-cured guanciale, garlic and rosemary, folding them through silky, egg-rich fettuccine.

Just as the dish is ready to serve, we grab a seat and talk about the rhythms of the kitchen, the pull of Italian cooking, and the ingredients that continue to inspire him.

Where did your love of cooking begin? Was there a particular moment, place or person that set you on this path?

I was very fortunate growing up because my mum always cooked at home. Food and mealtimes really dictated the rhythm of each day in our house. The real turning point came when I got to university. I remember my friends asking why I cared so much about what we were having for dinner. That was then I realised maybe it wasn’t just a hobby.

What does a typical day-in-the-life look like for you at the moment?

It varies, but normally I come in, take care of deliveries, make a coffee, and then get stuck into the morning prep. Once that’s done we move into lunch service. After lunch we’ll finish anything that needs doing, and then we get ready for dinner service. That’s the rhythm five or six days a week.

Trullo isn’t about reinventing Italian cooking, but celebrating it. What do you think makes Italian cuisine so enduring?

I think people are drawn to how honest it is. It’s not overly embellished. Italian cooking is something that feels accessible to cook at home and something that can be completely mind-blowing when it’s done well. You can have a beautiful artichoke right in the middle of its season and think, “This is exactly what spring tastes like.” Simple ingredients can become something spectacular. That’s why it’s so appealing.

What personally drew you to Italian cooking specifically?

I always thought I wanted to cook Italian food. At the time I wasn’t sure if it would just be something I did for a couple of years while learning the basics as a chef. But the more time I’ve spent working with it, the more relationships I’ve built and the more I’ve learned about the different regional traditions. When you start to see the variety, from Roman cooking to Alpine influences, you realise it’s something you could spend a lifetime researching and improving at as a chef.

Is there an ingredient you find yourself returning to again and again?

Definitely artichokes, but beyond that I really look forward to the first flat peaches of the year. That first bite in May or June is amazing. I also like those early signals of what’s about to come in the year, things like Blood Oranges and Rhubarb in January and February. They’re a reminder that the seasons are changing.

Is there a dish from your childhood that still holds a special place for you?

That’s easy, fish pie. It’s a dish my grandma used to make. She taught my mum how to cook it, my mum tweaked it a little bit, and then she taught me.

If we could take you out for a meal anywhere in the UK right now, where would you choose, and why?

I’d probably go to Sweetings in the City. I’d have a nice bottle of white wine at a weekday lunch and some simply grilled fish with vegetables. Sometimes that’s exactly what you want.

What are three things you’ll always find in your pantry or cupboard

Capers, anchovies and dijon mustard.