WILD MARINARA PIZZA WITH MICHELE PASCARELLA

Wild ingredients are uncompromisingly seasonal.

Though their window may be brief, it’s their transient nature and wild flavour that makes them all the more compelling. You could say they bring a sense of place and immediacy to the plate, capturing nature as it is, here and now.

This philosophy of seasonality underpins chef Michele Pascarella’s approach to cooking. “When an ingredient is in season, you experience its full flavour and personality,” he says.

At this time of year, Britain’s woodlands, hedgerows and coastlines come alive with edible spring greens, from Alexander Buds and Three Cornered Leeks to Sea Purslane, Green Pine Cones and Wild Garlic, the defining ingredient in today’s Off The Pass recipe.

Born near Naples, the spiritual home of pizza, Michele has become one of the most recognised figures in London’s thriving pizza scene, and for very good reason. Crowned Best Pizza Maker in the World at the 50 Top Pizza Awards in 2023, his pizzeria, Napoli on the Road, has since been named Europe’s Best Pizzeria for two consecutive years at the 50 Top Pizza Europa awards.

Until recently, Napoli on the Road has focused on two neighbourhood outposts in Chiswick and Richmond. Now, it expands into Soho, bringing Michele’s celebrated approach to a wider London audience.

Under fresh spring skies, we make our way to Wardour Street just before service begins, ready to try one of the dishes Michele’s most proud of from the seasonal menu. We sit beside the window where a plate of Winter Tomatoes lie decoratively on the ledge, basking in the April sun. It is the perfect spot for watching the world go by.

The Wild Marinara is a standout. Built on a tomato base, it’s layered with semi-dried cherry tomatoes, Taggiasche olives, capers, Cetara anchovy fillets, homemade Piennolo cherry tomato jam, and a homemade Wild Garlic pesto.

The dough is as carefully considered as the toppings. High hydration and long fermentation create a base that is light yet structured, with a billowy soft crumb and a crisp underside.

We wash it down with spicy margaritas, as is only right, finishing the meal with slices of warm chocolate bread, dolloped with cloud-like cream and a (very generous) drizzle of melted gianduia. A wholesome and indulgent lunch, leaving our bellies pleasantly full and happy.

The heart of this dish is really the Wild Garlic, a prominent plant of the British spring. Thriving in shaded woodlands, it’s prized for its vivid green leaves and unmistakable aroma. We follow it through its full life cycle, from leaves and buds to flowers and capers (with the exception of bulbs), working closely with responsible foragers from Cornwall to Wales to bring each stage of this ingredient to chefs and home cooks across the UK.

Foragers like Guy in Cornwall spend hours carefully harvesting wild garlic from the forest floor, selectively cutting leaves before meticulously sorting through their haul to remove any foreign plants. It is labour-intensive work, requiring deep knowledge and respect for the ecosystem.

Respect is at the heart of Michele’s practice, too. For him, a great pizza begins with quality produce and the skill to transform it while preserving its natural simplicity.

“When you work with what nature gives you, the ideas for toppings come naturally. It also allows you to keep the pizza simple and respectful of the ingredients”.

Because when you let the ingredients lead, there’s very little else you need to add.

WILD MARINARA PIZZA

INGREDIENTS

For the tomato sauce

100g tomato sauce
Pinch of fine salt

For the tomato jam

300g cherry tomatoes
50g sugar

For the Wild Garlic pesto

32g Wild Garlic Leaves
8g Basil
40g extra virgin olive oil
Squeeze of Lemon
20g Grana Padano or Parmesan
20g pine nuts
1g salt
1 ice cube (optional)

For the pizza dough

250g flour
175g water
0.5g yeast
6g salt

For the toppings (adjust quantities to taste)

Semi-dry cherry tomatoes
Taggiasche olives
Capers
Cetara anchovy fillets
Greek oregano
Drizzle of extra virgin olive oil

METHOD

1. To make the tomato base, open all cans and process the tomatoes using a tomato grinder. Blend the final half can of tomato sauce with the salt until fully dissolved, then combine with the rest of the sauce. Transfer to a container.
2. Next, prepare the tomato jam by washing the cherry tomatoes thoroughly and removing all seeds. Place them in a large pan over low heat, add the sugar, and stir well. Cook gently until the mixture thickens and caramelises, stirring frequently to ensure even caramelisation.
3. Blend until smooth, then strain to remove any solids if desired. Allow the jam to cool completely before transferring to a clean jar or squeeze bottle.
4. For the Wild Garlic pesto, begin by washing the wild garlic and basil leaves thoroughly. Place the wild garlic, basil, pine nuts, and salt into a Thermomix bowl and chop for 5 seconds on speed 5.
5. Add the Grana Padano, lemon juice, olive oil, and ice cubes, then blend for 2 minutes on speed 8 until smooth and creamy. Transfer to a clean jar (you can store this in the fridge for up to 5 days.
6. To prepare the olives and capers, start by gently heating some olive oil in a pan with 2–3 anchovies. Let the anchovies melt into the oil, then add the olives, followed shortly by the capers. Sauté everything for a few minutes to develop a rich, unified flavor, then turn off the heat and set aside.
7. For the dried tomatoes, place cherry tomatoes in the oven at around 90–100°C for a couple of hours until they dry out, seasoning them with a little sugar, salt, and oregano. The anchovies can simply be chopped as they are.
8. For the pizza dough: Add all the flour into a bowl, then mix in half of the water with the yeast. Start mixing, gradually adding the remaining water little by little. Once most of the water is incorporated, add the salt and the final part of the water. Knead by hand for 4–5 minutes.
9. If the dough feels soft, let it rest covered for 10–15 minutes, then knead again for a few more minutes until smooth. Leave it at room temperature for 2–4 hours, then divide into balls of 250–260 g. Place them in a closed container, let them rest at room temperature for about 30–60 minutes, then refrigerate for 8–12 hours. Take the dough out about one hour before using, add your toppings and cook for 8–15 minutes at a high temperature of 230-260°C. To finish, add the Wild Garlic pesto along with dollops of tomato jam and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.