WINTER TOMATO, COD AND HAZELNUTS WITH MICHAEL LAVERY

When childhood friends Michael Lavery and Bash Redford launched Forza Wine in Peckham back in 2019, it didn’t take long to gather a hungry cult following. They followed with a spot inside Southbank’s National Theatre. Both are much-loved rooftop venues whose views are very much part of the pull.

Now, they take on the West End, opening their biggest outpost yet, a light and bright 170-cover space near Soho Square.

Much like that of its predecessors, the menu features quality vinos, classic cocktails, soft serves, the famous Custardo® (a dangerously drinkable crème anglaise with espresso) and a well-curated list of small plates. An emphasis is placed on sharing and seasonality. Two things we’re very much here for.

Inside, it’s all colour and character. Creamy, mustard-hued walls complemented by pops of signature deep green, a shiny tiled floor, arched windows and an inherited mirrored ceiling that pretty much stretches the entirety of the main room. Rows of empty Italian wine bottles and a bespoke analogue clock incorporating the restaurant’s logo adds a playful touch that feels very true to Forza.

The crowning glory though has got to be the 70-cover outdoor terrace.

On a soft, late morning in March, we gather around a forest green table outside. Forza Fivers (English white vermouth cocktails) have been poured on the rocks, passed around, and happily savoured. Now, knives and forks poised, we’re ready to dig into a new seasonal dish from head chef and co-founder, Michael Lavery.

A summery recipe that’s made for winter, is how he sums it up.

Cod from Flying Fish, a seasonal and sustainable seafood supplier in Cornwall, is gently cooked until it practically melts in the mouth. Winter Tomatoes are then very briefly caramelised in the oil left behind from the fish. They’re only cooked on one side, leaving the tops charred to perfection.

To finish, a dressing is drawn out of the tomatoes, tied together with hazelnuts, olive oil and parsley. The result is a contrast of textures. Tender fish, tomatoes that sit somewhere between soft and crisp, and the deep crunch of toasted hazelnuts.

“I get excited about different produce every year. Last year, I was obsessed with Radicchio and French Asparagus. This time, it’s Winter Tomatoes, particularly the Marinda.”

Michael Lavery

It’s the Marinda that takes precedence in this dish, a variety grown by Sebastiano in Sicily’s Province of Syracuse.

Michael explains that due to its characteristic firmness, Marinda calls for a different culinary approach to summer fruits. He praises the way it holds its shape when cooked, and how its natural flavour shines through.

Medium sized and deeply rigid, this variety is tart and salty, but with a balancing sweetness in the flesh. Its complexity of flavour makes it the ideal focal point for this dish at Forza.

WINTER TOMATO, COD AND HAZELNUTS

INGREDIENTS

180-200g cod, ideally a thick portion from a large fillet
2 Marinda Winter Tomatoes
Toasted hazelnuts
Handful of parsley, chopped
Salt and pepper, to taste
Glug of extra virgin olive oil
Chianti Vinegar

METHOD

1. Start by separating the cod into portions and store in a single layer, skin-side up.
2. Toast the hazelnuts. I like doing it in the oven at 160°C for about 15 minutes. Not too fast, not too slow, really crunchy.
3. Split the tomatoes in half, equatorially. Remove the root from the top half.
4. Season the tomatoes with salt to draw out their juices. Don't rush this part, they can sit happily for up to an hour (minimum 15 mins). Use a big mixing bowl for this, we’ll finish the dish in the same bowl.
5. Crush some of the toasted hazelnuts in a pestle and mortar, stir in the extracted tomato juices, some salt and some vinegar to make a thick dressing
6. Season the fish with salt and leave for up to 10 minutes. Caramelise skin-side down in a pan, then turn it skin side up onto a roasting tray and finish in the oven for around 4 minutes.
7. While the fish roasts, you have around 4 minutes to char the tomatoes in the pan (fry up style) so the moisture deglazes the flavour left in the pan by the cod. We’re not looking to cook them all the way through, char on the cut side and still firm on the back is perfect.
8. Move the now roasted tomatoes back into the big mixing bowl, add the hazelnut dressing and as much parsley as you want. Give it a big mix and taste it, does it need more vinegar? More salt?
9. To plate, put the fish down first and lay three halves of tomato next to it, be sure to get all that dressing out of the bowl and spread around the plate!

So, what are the must-trys according to Michael? What ingredients are especially inspiring this season? And where do you dine when you’re a co-founder of one of London’s buzziest restaurants? We find out.

Is there a dish, or a drink, on the menu that you think perfectly captures what Forza Wine is about right now? What absolutely shouldn’t people miss?

If you’ve never been to Forza, try a Custardo®.

We always have cauliflower fritti on the menu, too. It wasn’t supposed to be something that stayed on forever, but we put it on the opening menu in Peckham and everybody went crazy about it. It satisfies drunk people’s craving for chips and it’s just delicious. It’s great with drinks, great in the summer, great in the winter. It just works, so we stuck with that.

There are two dishes which I think should be around for a while: The pane carasau with gorgonzola, finocchiona and pickles and the burrata, leeks and anchovies with what we call ‘spudgrattato’ (deep fried grated potatoes which are a little like the tiny, delicious crisps at the bottom of the bag). We’re big fans of cheese and onion crisps and our Peckham head chef once did a series of cheese and onion dishes without realising.

What’s your drink of choice at the moment?

The Forza Fiver.

It’s a £5 English vermouth, available at all the restaurants, all the time. It works as a welcome drink and should be available to pre-order when you book so it’s on your table when you get there.

In the summer, the frozen cocktails are always great and super popular. We do half and half as well, so you can have half apple daiquiri and half blood orange margarita in the same glass.

Your menu is always shifting with the seasons. What produce are you especially excited about this spring? Is there an ingredient that feels particularly inspiring this season?

I get really excited about something different every year. Last year I was obsessed with Radicchio. I love French Asparagus, too.

Right now, I’m very excited about Winter Tomatoes, particularly the Marinda. We treat winter varieties completely differently to the summer ones. They’re firm and have a different character.

In a nutshell, what does a “day in the life” look like for you at the moment?

At the moment, it’s completely different every day.

On Friday, I worked service on the terrace, then the next day I was driving to our other two restaurants to get things we’d sold out of and bring them here to Soho.

So it’s either helping the kitchen, sorting out rotas or going between the restaurants. You can have intentions for a day, but it changes constantly.

After a long service, what’s your go-to comfort meal or snack?

Either a cheap packet of ramen or roasted tomato spaghetti with parmesan using tinned tomatoes from Antonella.

Favourite restaurant in London right now?

Bouchon Racine, by a country mile. It’s amazing. Henry [Harris] and Dave [Strauss] are absolute legends, and a lot of the people who taught me to cook were taught by Henry. The food’s just incredible. It’s small, they know what they’re talking about, and it’s fancy while being casual at the same time. One of the very best restaurants.