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Reframe Seasonality with Winter Tomatoes

21·03·23

2 min read

Growers

camone tomatoes
tomatoes of different shapes and sizes cut open on a plate

Franco Fubini — our founder — grew up eating Camone Tomatoes. In the 80s and 90s, the Camone was a triumph of Sardinian agriculture and gastronomy. With incredibly crunchy, thick skin and brightly acidic seeds balanced with distinctly sweet, umami flesh, it was iconic in Italy.

These unique characteristics were drawn out by stress. Growers would plant their seeds in autumn in sandy soil, close to the sea. Developing slowly through the coldest months, in saline conditions, the plants were pushed to their limits. By withholding irrigation, growers upped the ante. Where most tomatoes thrive in summer, this variety could only reach its full potential in winter.

Although Camone Tomatoes were available to London’s most flavour-led chefs for several years, they were a hard sell. Convincing anyone that tomatoes could be at their prime in winter meant rewriting the narrative that European tomatoes exclusively come into their own in the warmer months.

It wasn't until Franco discovered the Marinda that he realised there was a whole group of seasonal tomatoes that existed under the radar. Like the Camone Tomato, this relatively modern variety came into its own under duress to develop a slightly tart, almost salty flavour and a stark green collar. By grouping them into their own category, Franco knew he could make them accepted on a global stage. He coined them: Winter Tomatoes.

'This was the start of a typology of tomatoes that we termed "winter tomatoes" - we did this to counteract the common misconception that summer is a tomato's only natural season.'

- FRANCO FUBINI, NATOORA FOUNDER

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Today, we’re blown away by how far the category has come. Over the years we discovered more varieties that came into their own in the colder months and added Iberiko and RAF Tomatoes into the mix. Their full potential is now recognised by London’s most flavour-led chefs.

Rose and Ruthie at The River Café were instrumental in popularising this shift. Today, Winter Tomatoes are a stalwart of top restaurant menus at this time of year — signposting seasonality everywhere from Lyle's to Brat to Spring.

Our term has even made it into popular discourse. Nigel Slater speaks of ‘crisp-fleshed winter tomatoes’ while Anna Jones reveals that she does ‘look forward to the first crop of hardy, salty, winter tomatoes.’ By working directly with chefs and growers, we can shift seasonality and transform the food system from within.

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