STONE FRUIT PANZANELLA WITH STAN DE TILLY

Throughout the year, we wait for the arrival of stone fruit. Hundreds of varieties emerge over the course of the summer, unified by their stone in the center and the sweet, honeyed flesh that lends itself equally well to jams, pies and salads. Their season is fleeting, but unmistakable.

For Stan De Tilly of L’Appartement 4F, that first arrival of stone fruit matters. "Hearing people in the dining room react as they eat the first peach of the season is joyful for me,"

Across California's orchards, stone fruit season is entering its stride. Peaches, nectarines and pluots are ripening under the summer sun, each variety arriving with its own balance of sweetness and acidity. It's a season that unfolds gradually, revealing new flavours week by week. For today's Off The Pass recipe, stone fruit is the ingredient leading the conversation.

Originally from Hong Kong, Stan has been part of L’Appartement 4F since its earliest days, helping shape the Brooklyn Heights bakery and restaurant into one of New York City's most beloved neighbourhood spots. From laminated pastries in the morning to natural wine and seasonal plates in the evening, the space reflects a distinctly French approach: thoughtful and rooted in daily ritual.

On a humid July afternoon, we make our way down the tree-lined stretch of Montague Street in Brooklyn Heights. Inside L'Appartement 4F, sunlight spills through the front windows onto shelves lined with imported French jams and trays of freshly baked croissants. Beyond the bakery, Stan waits in the kitchen with a delivery of peak-season stone fruit fresh from Natoora growers: a welcome reprieve from the heat outside.

On the menu today is a stone fruit panzanella. Thick slices of heirloom tomato form the base, dressed with an orange vinaigrette brightened by Sungold tomatoes and their juices. Yellow peaches, pluots and sour cherries bring sweetness and acidity, while Taggiasca olives, basil and toasted sourdough breadcrumbs add depth and texture.

It's the kind of dish that only makes sense for a few weeks each year. The sweetness of the fruit meets the savoury richness of tomato and olive. Every ingredient arrives on the plate at the height of its season.

The dish follows the progression of stone fruit season itself. Early in the summer, the fruit arrives crisp, bright and almost floral. As the weeks pass, sugars develop and the flesh softens, moving towards the rich honeyed character associated with late-season peaches and nectarines.

Working closely with growers allows chefs like Stan to cook with fruit at every stage of that journey. In California, Natoora grower Nick cultivates hundreds of stone fruit varieties, selecting heritage cultivars and newer hybrids for flavour rather than uniform appearance.

At L'Appartement 4F, menus are designed to bend with the season. "[The kitchen manager] is always nudging me to put what's in season on the menu as soon as possible," Stan says. Rather than building dishes around fixed recipes, ingredients dictate direction. When stone fruit reaches its peak, it naturally finds its way onto the plate.

Stone fruit’s season is impossibly short, arriving with abundance before disappearing again. For a few weeks each summer, it reminds us that some ingredients are worth waiting for and that the best dishes often begin with paying attention to what's ready right now.

STONE FRUIT Panzanella

INGREDIENTS

For the orange vinaigrette

3 tbsp Senia Olive Oil
6 tbsp neutral oil
1/2 Shallot, finely diced
1.5 cup Sungold Tomatoes, halved (juices reserved)
2 tsp honey
4 tbsp champagne vinegar
Juice of 1 orange
1 tsp Salt

For the panzanella

2 Pluots - pitted and oblique cut
2 medium heirloom tomatoes - cored and sliced horizontally into 1-inch thick rounds (juices reserved)
1 Yellow Peach – pitted and oblique cut
1 cup Sour Cherries - pitted and halved
¼ cup Taggiasca Olives - sliced
Basil - picked and washed
Toasted sourdough breadcrumbs
Flaky Salt to finish

METHOD

1. To prepare the vinaigrette, combine the shallot, vinegar, and any remaining vinaigrette ingredients except the oil and tomatoes in a bowl. Whisk until well combined. While whisking continuously, slowly stream in the oil until the mixture emulsifies and becomes smooth. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt as needed.
2. Next, fold in the halved Sungold tomatoes along with their juices and any juices released from the heirloom tomatoes. Allow the vinaigrette to sit for approximately 20 minutes so the flavours can develop and the Sungolds lightly pickle.
3. For the assembly, spoon a generous layer of the vinaigrette onto the base of a serving platter or shallow dish. Season the heirloom tomato slices on both sides with flaky sea salt, then arrange them over the vinaigrette, spacing them approximately ½ inch apart.
4. In a separate bowl, lightly dress the remaining fruit with some of the vinaigrette. Arrange the pluots and sour cherries in small clusters throughout the salad, nestling them into the spaces between the heirloom tomatoes.
5. To finish, spoon additional vinaigrette over the salad and scatter generously with breadcrumbs. Garnish with whole basil leaves and sliced olives, ensuring they are evenly distributed throughout the dish.
6. Serve immediately. As the salad sits, the breadcrumbs will absorb the tomato and fruit juices, creating a richer texture and allowing the flavours to continue developing while eating.