IRISH FORCED RHUBARB AND APPLE TART WITH CLODAGH MANNING

“Irish apple tart is a rustic dessert that comes together in under an hour. It would not be uncommon in an Irish countryside home to have such a tart on hand at a moment's notice. The pastry is soft and almost cake-like, thanks to the addition of egg and milk. This tart is simple and easy to eat, offering a refreshing contrast to the maximalist nature of much modern food and pastry. The tender crumb and soft filling are comforting and evoke a sense of warmth and nostalgia."

After working as a pastry chef at Lyle’s in London—a transformative experience that shaped her produce-first approach—Clodagh moved to New York to take the pastry helm at Zimmi’s. There, she and head chef Maxime share a commitment to reviving classics and shining a light on lesser-known regional dishes.

This traditional Irish tart is generously filled with Forced Rhubarb Compote and Honeycrisp Apples. Don’t worry if the filling oozes out—those glimpses of crimson rhubarb only add to its charm.

IRISH FORCED RHUBARB AND APPLE TART

INGREDIENTS

Pastry

115g unsalted butter
225g plain flour
Pinch salt
1/2 tsp baking powder
50g icing sugar
2 tbsp milk
1 large egg (beaten)

Filling

400g forced rhubarb, chopped into 2cm pieces
120g caster sugar (adjust to taste depending on sweetness of fruit)
1 tbsp lemon juice
15g potato starch
3 Honeycrisp apples, peeled, cored, and sliced

To finish

Caster sugar for dusting (optional)

METHOD

For the pastry:

1. In a large bowl, combine the plain flour, icing sugar, baking powder, and salt.
2. Rub the cold butter into the flour mixture until it resembles fine breadcrumbs.
3. Add the beaten egg and milk, then knead until the dough comes together and is smooth. If it’s too dry, add a little more milk, one teaspoon at a time.
4. Wrap the dough in cling film and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.
5. On a lightly floured surface, roll out the two pieces of chilled pastry dough to fit a 23cm (9-inch) foil plate (traditional) or tart tin. Line the tin with the pastry, pressing gently into the edges. Leave 1cm of excess overhang.
   

For the fruit filling:

1. In a pot, combine the rhubarb, sugar, and lemon juice with 4 tbsp of water.
2. Cook over medium heat for about 8 minutes, stirring often, until the fruit starts to soften and release its juices.
3. Add potato starch and cook for a further 2 mins. Taste the filling for seasoning and add more sugar if necessary — it should be bright and tart.

To assemble and bake the tart:

1. Dust the base of the tart with a ½ tsp of potato starch.
2. Layer the apple slices and forced rhubarb compote into the prepared pastry case.
3. Cover with second pastry sheet, and crimp the edges using a fork.
4. Egg wash and make a vent on top of the tart.
5. Bake the tart in the preheated oven (325f) for 45-60 minutes, or until the pastry is golden and the fruit is tender.
   

To serve:

1. Allow the tart to cool slightly before removing it from the tin and cool for at east 2 hours.
2. Cover the top with caster sugar.
3. Serve with whipped Ronnybrook cream and/or custard. I enjoy this tart at room temperature, but you could choose to warm it gently.
   

What inspired you to become a pastry chef?

I always wanted to be a chef as I grew up loving food and cooking. Any spare time during university allowed me to dive deeper into the craft and it was during this time I learned I was at my happiest in the kitchen. Once I began cooking in professional kitchens, I landed in pastry as a first stop, as many young chefs do. I ended up loving it. I have a deep passion for working with fruit, which is what first attracted me to pastry. Additionally, the pastry community is incredibly tight-knit and supportive, and I was drawn to be a part of that.

Tell us about your career journey and where you've worked along the way.

During college, I connected with various people in Dublin’s food scene – I started my career as a waiter at the iconic Pepperpot Café, a cheesemonger at Sheridans, and even a culinary tour guide. After finishing my degree in Human Nutrition, I worked in technology for a brief period before deciding to commit the full switch to kitchens. Shortly thereafter, landed my first cook role at Library Street in Dublin, working in both larder and pastry.

In September 2022, I moved to London and started working in pastry at Lyle’s. James’ food had a massive impact on me – I was inspired by his strong vision and unwavering commitment to sourcing the best quality ingredients. At Lyle’s, we focused on adapting dishes to suit the produce, rather than forcing the produce to fit the dish. James taught me that fruit is just as precious as meat or fish and deserves the same level of care and attention. Those shifts in perspective have completely transformed the way I approach pastry.

As of now, I am helping develop the pastry program Zimmi’s in the West Village while also testing dishes for Zimmi’s wine bar, Bar à Part, which is set to open this spring. Maxime, the chef and I share a commitment to reviving old classics and showcasing lesser-known regional dishes. I have a lot of respect for his approach to food and feel inspired particularly by his respect for tradition. Fruit and vegetable-centric tarts and galettes will be a mainstay on the Bar à Part menu, which as a produce fanatic, I’m absolutely thrilled about.

Do you have a favorite season?

SUMMER. I love every phase of the season, from the herbs and blossoms to the soft fruit, and finally, the arrival of stone fruit. The flurry of produce is overwhelming in the best possible way. A cornerstone of my pastry and cooking is celebrating bounty, which for myself, summer embodies completely.

How do you approach ingredients in your cooking?

I feel most inspired when working with local, highly seasonal ingredients. It brings me so much joy to work with excellent foundational ingredients, like butter and flour; as well as with show-stopping centerpieces like this forced rhubarb.
When it comes to fruit-based desserts, I love creating cohesive designs that focus on one or just a few fruits. I also take pleasure in using the entire fruit – for example, I’ll make a glaze for an apple tart using the “leftover” skins and cores.

Since being in New York, I’ve thoroughly enjoyed having access to freshly milled heritage flour from Wild Hive Farm and beautiful Oregon hazelnuts from Natoora, which are the best I have tasted!

Where do you love to eat in NYC?

I’m still getting to know the city, but so far, I’m loving the steamed rice rolls from Yi Ji Shi Mo and pork buns from Mei Lai Wah Bakery in Chinatown, the bakes and caffe leccese from Bread and Salt Bakery in Jersey City, Wu’s Wonton for a great group meal. My favorite restaurant though, is Ha’s Snack Bar, run by Sadie Burns Ha and Anthony Ha. It has all the features of a perfect restaurant: daily changing chalkboard menu, cozy space, and food that feels sustaining and thrilling in equal measure.