SPIKY ARTICHOKES WITH SAM ANDREWS, THE WATERMAN'S ARMS

We source Spiky Artichokes from Paola in Liguria, their native growing region. Sometimes named ‘Albenga Artichokes’ they are famed in this particular part of northern Italy, where Paola grows them with minimum intervention, investing hugely in the health of her soil and plants. Where most growers would cultivate in the same field year on year, she moves her artichokes into a new field every season. Cutting back the foliage, she’ll pull up the plant’s crown and remove any remaining tubers before replanting. Not only does this reinvigorate the root systems but it gives the soil time to rest and regenerate between plantings.

A variety with very little wastage, Spiky Artichokes are great eaten raw, when their clean, mineral flavour really comes through. This is how Sam’s using them, marinated in lemony dressing and tossed with warm beans. Sam recommends cooking the Cocco Bianco Beans ahead of time and reheating them gently in their liquid just before serving. This will help you stay in control of timings and keep things simpler when you’re trying to get this on the table. In fact, prep is key: this all comes together right at the end so make sure you’ve got everything in place.

This recipe makes two starter portions so scale up as appropriate. The dressing will be enough to have plenty left over for other uses — toss it over lightly stemmed greens or raw salads.

INGREDIENTS

50g dried Cocco Bianco Beans, soaked overnight in cold water with a pinch of bicarbonate of soda
Extra virgin olive oil
1 Spiky Artichoke
1 rib of celery finely sliced across the width
A small chunk of parmesan
6 lovage leaves, thinly shredded
1 teaspoon capers
2 teaspoons of dried breadcrumbs, lightly fried in olive oil

For the lemon dressing

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon
25ml lemon juice
12ml aged white wine vinegar
12ml white balsamic vinegar
50ml extra virgin olive oil
50ml neutral oil

METHOD

1. Drain the beans from the water they soaked in and rinse them. Put them in a small pot and add cold water, covering them by about four centimetres. Place over a low heat and bring very gently to a simmer.

2. Cook as gently as you can for about half an hour, this helps the beans hold their shape. Skim off any foam that forms as you go and add some water to the pan if necessary to keep the beans submerged. Cooking times will vary so check regularly after this point.

3. When the beans are fully tender, remove the pot from the heat and season generously with salt and add a good glug of your best olive oil. The water wants to taste nearly too salty as the beans will absorb the salt as they steep and it’ll all balance out.

4. To make the dressing, combine the zest with the oils in a small pan and gently warm just to body temperature. Combine with the other dressing ingredients and whisk together well. Transfer to a squeezy bottle or jar.

5. Prepare the Spiky Artichoke by cutting away the top third of the head. Tear away the first few layers of leaves until they start to look more pale and less woody. Use a peeler to peel away the fibrous outer layer of the stalk and to smooth out the base of the head. Cut the artichoke in half and use a teaspoon or small sharp knife to pry away the hairy choke (if present). If preparing the artichoke ahead of time, store it in water spiked with a good squeeze of lemon juice or splash of white wine vinegar. The acid will help stop it from discolouring.

6. When ready to bring the salad together, very thinly slice the artichoke from top to bottom. Add it to a mixing bowl with a sprinkle of sea salt. Shake together the lemon dressing and generously dress the artichoke with it. Allow the artichoke to macerate for a couple of minutes like this.

7. Gently reheat the Cocco Bianco Beans in their liquor until warm but not piping hot. Use a slotted spoon to transfer them to the mixing bowl but allow a small splash of the liquor to come with. Lightly grate a little parmesan into the bowl. Go easy — you just want to add a subtle savouriness rather than making the dish cheesy.

8. Add the sliced celery, lovage and capers to the bowl and mix everything together. Transfer to two small plates and sprinkle the breadcrumbs over the top.