LACTO-FERMENTED HEIRLOOM TOMATOES WITH DR JOHNNY DRAIN

Dr Johnny Drain is a scientist, chef and a world expert in fermentation.

Described as one of most exciting thinkers in food today, he’s on a mission to unlock the secret science of flavour, fermentation and sustainability, which he explores in his book Adventures in Fermentation.

“People often imagine fermentation as this complex, almost mystical craft. Lab coats and microscopes,” says Dr Drain. “But really, all you need is a jar, some salt, and a tomato. Anyone can do it at home.”

In this recipe, he layers colourful British-grown heirlooms into glass jars with garlic cloves, leafy celery, and a few fronds of feathery dill. The result is a lacto-fermented delight.

The flavour, of course, starts with the tomato itself, Dr Drain tells us. “Using great-quality produce makes a big difference, and fermentation adds a slight tang and gentle fizz, giving the fruit a candy-like, mouth-popping texture.”

It’s no wonder Ukrainian chef, food writer, and activist Olia Hercules dubs these “champagne tomatoes,” which captures that explosion of flavour perfectly.

Toss them into a salad or enjoy them straight from the jar. They even lend themselves well to sauces and a variety of cooked dishes, too.

LACTO-FERMENTED HEIRLOOM TOMATOES

INGREDIENTS

British Heirloom Tomatoes
Salt
Water

Optional but encouraged:

2 Garlic cloves, halved
A few slices of celery
A few fronds of dill

METHOD

1. Sterilise a large glass jar or suitable fermentation vessel.
2. Make up a 3.5% brine solution: for every 100g of water, add 3.5g of salt. Stir until dissolved.
3. Pack the aromatics at the bottom of the jar, then add the tomatoes.
4. Pour the brine over the tomatoes and ensure they are well covered. There should be no tomato skin poking out. Use a fermentation weight to keep them submerged if necessary.
5. Cover the jar with its lid, screwed on lightly to allow gas to escape, and store at room temperature.
6. Stir occasionally over the first few days. Bubbles should start forming and the tomatoes will start to appear slightly paler and the brine more opaque.
7. After 4-6 days, taste a tomato. It should be more sour than when put in, unctuous and even slightly fizzy.
8. If you’re happy with the taste, move to the fridge to store, or ferment for a day or two longer.