FORCED RHUBARB GÂTEAU BASQUE WITH ALESSANDRO GIANNATEMPO

“Dessert brings people together,” says Alessandro, recipe developer and pastry chef at Fink’s – a café and deli counter that’s been a staple in North London since opening its doors in 2014, now with four locations across the city.

At Fink’s, as well as through personal commissions, Alessandro channels their creativity into bold and inventive seasonally-inspired bakes – all deeply thoughtful in their flavour combinations and presented with playful flair. “In high school, I studied Architecture and History of Art, so there’s a lot of art involved in my craft,” they explain. Most recently, Alessandro created a striking six-foot-long cake for London Fashion Week, showcasing produce sourced from Natoora.

Alessandro shares our commitment to supporting small-scale growers and selecting carefully selected fruit and veg. They have a particular fondness for citrus, too, which led them to visit a citrus orchard in Valencia last year. “I returned to Madrid [after the trip] and made a limequat marmalade, candied some Buddha Hand, and used the citrus fruits to bake a birthday cake for my mum,” they recall.

In this recipe, a traditional Gâteau Basque is filled with a Forced Rhubarb compote harvested by the Tomlinson family in Pudsey, West Yorkshire, as well as a zesty crème pâtissière made with Carmelo’s Sicilian Blood Oranges.

GÂTEAU BASQUE WITH FORCED RHUBARB COMPOTE & BLOOD ORANGE CRÈME PÂTISSIÈRE

INGREDIENTS

Rhubarb compote

400g Forced Rhubarb (cut approximately in 1cm pieces)
50g caster sugar
100g Blood Orange (from 1 orange)
11g corn starch

Crème pâtissière

350g milk
2g salt (a pinch)
zest of 1 Blood Orange
60g caster sugar
1 vanilla bean
100g egg yolk
20g corn starch
40g cold butter

Pastry dough and assembly

230g plain flour
60g toasted almond flour
1tsp baking powder
3⁄4 teaspoon salt
150g brown butter (cooled, obtained from 190g butter)
130g caster sugar
3 eggs (2 for the dough and 1 for assembly)
1⁄2 tsp almond extract (vanilla extract or rhum also work well)

METHOD

For the rhubarb compote:

1. In a saucepan, combine the rhubarb, sugar, and half of the orange juice. Cook over a medium-low heat until the rhubarb breaks down and thickens.
2. In a bowl, mix the remaining orange juice with the cornstarch, then add to the saucepan. Cook for a couple of minutes to activate the cornstarch (until it bubbles rapidly).
3. Transfer to a heat proof container, cover, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 1 week.

For the crème pâtissière:

1. In a saucepan, combine milk, salt, blood orange zest, half of the sugar and vanilla (seeds and pod) on medium-low heat, until a gentle simmer.
2. In a bowl, whisk the yolks, corn starch and the other half of the sugar until pale and fluffy (this should take around 2 minutes).
3. Gradually whisk hot milk into the yolk mixture, then return to the saucepan. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until thick and smooth (about 4-5 minutes).
4. Strain through a fine sieve into a bowl and then whisk in the cold butter. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing it onto the surface. Chill for at least 2 hours or up to 5 days.

For the pastry dough:

1. Whisk together the flour, almond flour, baking powder and salt.
2. In a stand mixer, beat brown butter and sugar until fluffy (4-5 mins) then mix in the 2 eggs, one at a time, followed by the almond extract.
3. Add the dry mix in two parts, mixing until just combined.
4. Knead briefly (the dough will be sticky and very soft). Divide it into two, wrap, flatten, and chill for at least 2 hours.

To assemble and bake:

1. Butter and flour a 22cm removable-bottom tart pan.
2. Roll the first half of the dough on floured parchment into a 27cm disk and line the pan, pressing the dough against the sides all the way around so it extends slightly above the top pan.
3. Roll the second dough disk into a 25cm round on floured parchment and chill.
4. Preheat the oven to 180°C.
5. Fill the tart shell with the rhubarb compote and spread the pastry cream on top.
6. Brush the edges with beaten egg. Cover with the top crust, seal, trim pressing the sides with a rolling pin and brush with egg. Score with a fork to create a decorative pattern and leave it to chill for around 15 minutes.
7. Bake the tart until the top is shiny and deep golden brown (45 to 55 minutes). Let the tart cool completely before removing the outer ring and serving.

What inspired you to become a pastry chef?

I'm definitely a dessert person, and I love the celebratory aspect of making a cake, too – the togetherness of it all. Dessert brings people together.

Tell us about your career journey and where you've worked along the way.

Before Fink’s, I spent some time working at a well-known bakery in South East London called Pedlar. I also worked in a pastry kitchen in Italy as well as a bakery in Madrid.

Do you have a favourite season?

I’d say summer. There’s a different approach to cooking in summer which is a lot more casual, quick and fresh, as opposed to winter where there’s more of an emphasis on slow cooking.

Favourite ingredient to cook with?

One of my favorite ingredients as a pastry chef is citrus or citric acid, because it just makes things pop. I love its brightness.

What’s one thing every pastry chef should know?

Well, definitely read the recipe all the way through! A clean, organised table will make your life so much easier, too. I’d say don’t rush things, and trust the process. Practice makes perfect.

What’s one of your go-to tools in the kitchen? Is there one that you consider a real lifesaver?

It would have to be my offset spatula which helps shape and smooth things out.

Talk us through your creative process.

In high school, I studied Architecture and History of Art, so there’s a lot of art involved in my craft. When I first moved to London, I also started acting, so I’d say that music, movies and the visual arts generally play a big part in my creative process.

Where do you love to eat in London?

I have a list of places to visit, but I love Koya in Soho. It was the first restaurant I ate at when I moved to London, so it holds a sense of comfort for me.

Other than Fink's, do you have a favourite bakery at the moment?

Toad Bakery in Camberwell. It’s owned by my friend and it’s just brilliant.

Finally, what’s your favourite pastry to eat?

Lemon tarts, easily!