AT THE TABLE WITH LASSE PETERSEN

The freedom and creativity of Llewelyn’s and Lulu’s has kept Lasse there for five years, for him it’s ‘a place where people can grow and keep learning’. In an industry plagued by revolving doors, this kind of longevity signals something truly special. Book the best seat in the house (read on to find out which) and get Lasse’s tips on where else to eat in London. Plus, bring Lulu’s style to your kitchen with his recipe for Asparagus and Mussel Escabeche.

Tell us a bit about yourself? What made you want to become a chef?

I was a musician (in the Rakes!) but when I wasn't on tour I’d always be cooking and helping friends in pop-ups. So after I finished in the music industry, I started a job as a commis chef.

Where have you previously worked?

I worked at Moro where there was lots of fire cooking and really intense prep. Middle eastern and Spanish food working with great fresh ingredients. Then off to Denmark to work at Amass and 108 where I learnt a load of different skills, especially in more of a fine dining scene. Then I came back to London to the Western’s Laundry, Primeur and Jolene group for two years as sous chef.

There have been highlights and lowlights! But it’s all useful — even the low lights make you realise what you don’t want to do and what matters to you as a chef. If you don’t try different things, it’s hard to work out what suits you best. So many chefs get bogged down with one style of cooking.

Llewelyn’s has been a firm favourite for seven years now. What makes it such a special spot?

Loads of different things, we have a really nice square outside giving it a lovely neighbourhood vibe in the summer and we change the menu every week which keeps the locals coming back. Katya who owns the restaurant has given us full freedom to do what we want with the menu so obviously that’s a huge pull and I think, as a neighbourhood restaurant, that’s what you need to be doing to keep the repeat customers. We can follow the seasons to the week and it makes it much more fun for us.

We’re quite a small team so everyone pitches in with ideas which is fantastic and Katya has invested a lot into the staff. I've been working here for five years, so has Mikey the head chef and Tom the GM has been here for seven.

Lulu’s opened in 2022. How does the offering compare to Llewelyn’s?

It’s a bit different. We had the space come up next door and we decided to knock down the in-between bits and open it up. It created more room at Llewellyn's and allowed us to have a daytime offering at Lulu’s. We’re doing sandwiches, salads, cakes, pastries, bread and a little deli section. In the evening it’s like a naughty younger sister — small plates wine bar situation, more relaxed.

For anyone visiting Lulu’s for the first time what do you recommend they try?

Hard to say as it changes so much! But I would always start with a gilda because that’s a constant and our focaccia that we make in house. It took a long time to get it right, we played a lot with hydration levels but we’ve got that down now, with 95% hydration.

What’s the best seat in the house?

On a hot summer’s night under the tree in the courtyard on the big sharing table.

What’s your favourite spot for cheap eats?

Homies and Donkeys in Leytonstone. It’s near impossible to get a table but it's probably the best mexican food in London. So good. The margaritas are also really banging.

And for special occasions?

Eurgh. I can’t even remember when I went out for a special occasion. I always end up going to Western’s Laundry as I always want to go back. I went to Mountain recently and it was really good but I think I should go back with a smaller group to try it properly.

What’s your favourite season for cooking and why?

I’ve got two answers: spring and then winter. Just as it goes into winter you’ve had all the abundance of summer produce and then the rush of brassicas and root vegetables are really fresh and new. And the spring, as you come out of the hunger gap. If I see another celeriac I wanna kill someone. Then there’s rhubarb and peas and nuts…it makes you think, here we go.

What’s your favourite vegetable and why?

I think it might be a courgette. I used to hate courgettes as a child as we used to grow them in the garden. They'd get monstrous and be one of the worst things to eat in the world. Now it’s just so versatile: grill it, roast it, raw. One of my favourites is to boil the courgettes whole for ages so they don’t get any water retention, cut them into chunks and dress them in olive oil and lemon juice. So good. Especially the Trombetta, the quality is fantastic.

What’s your death row meal?

Easy. Pasta pomodoro.