ASPARAGUS AND MUSSEL ESCABECHE WITH LASSE PETERSEN

You may or may not catch this on Lulu’s menu, which changes weekly (part of the reason it keeps locals coming back again and again). Uncomplicated but bursting with flavour, this dish is typical of what you’ll find coming off the pass at Lulu’s. A neighbourhood deli by day and wine bar with small plates by night, it’s a one stop shop for all your food needs.

We source British Asparagus as soon as the season gets going, going to our Italian and French growers first to get a head start. Traditionally, the UK season begins on April 21st but this year it kicked off a little later due to a cold start to spring. Temperamental British weather is a challenge for asparagus, but it’s also key to their exceptional quality. Where indoor asparagus grow quickly in easy conditions (heated tunnels), these spears thrive against the elements, building resilience and flavour. ⁠

This dish serves two as a starter and is perfect for practising your julienne skills. Sharpen your knives, let’s go.

ASPARAGUS & MUSSEL ESCABECHE

INGREDIENTS

2 medium sized heirloom tomatoes (try Cuore del Vesuvio)
6 British Asparagus spears
1 tin of mussels / 6 cooked mussels (we use PYSCIS)
1 shallot
1 celery stick
1 carrot
4 tbsp white wine
2 tbsp cider vinegar
A pinch of saffron threads
100g butter
Chives, for garnish

METHOD

1. First, make a tomato concasse. Cut out around the stalk end of the tomato and cross the skin on the bottom end, without going too deep into the flesh. Blanch in boiling water for 30 seconds and transfer to iced water. Peel the skin off, discard the seeds and dice the flesh. Set aside.

2. Snap the woody bit off the asparagus. Peel about an inch from the bottom and trim them so all the spears look nice and uniform.

3. Cut the top and bottom off the shallot, peel and quarter it lengthways. Separate the shallot layers and get rid of the core (these can be kept and used for stock). Finely julienne (cut into thin matchsticks) the shallot ‘boats’ and then finely dice.

4. Peel the celery, julienne it and finely dice. Do the same with the carrot.

5. In a pan, reduce the white wine and cider vinegar with saffron and the diced shallots, celery and carrots. This is a good time to bring a shallow pan of salted water to the boil for your asparagus.

6. Make a beurre blanc by waiting until the wine and vinegar have reduced to about two tablespoons, then add the butter, little chunks at a time. Stir continuously until all incorporated and the sauce is thick and glossy. Check the seasoning and adjust if necessary.

7. Chop the mussels then add them and the tomato concasse to the beurre blanc. Turn the heat off.

8. Working quickly, so your sauce doesn’t go cold, blanch the asparagus in the boiling water for three minutes. While cooking, finely chop the chives.

9. Plate the asparagus side by side on a warmed dish, dress with the sauce and finish with finely chopped chives.